full meteor design

topic posted Wed, February 27, 2008 - 12:49 PM by  KaidaFire
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in an effort to consolidate these discussions.. as well as some messaging between jared and I:

I'll start off with my emerging ideas for a meteor, then list a few specific questions that are still outstanding. Feel free to comment on any aspect of any of this.. I'm totally open to suggestions and collaboration. Keep in mind that these design considerations are essentially for a fire meteor, though I'm making a practice one first (partly for testing and cost, partly because I like my practice toys to emulate the instruments of fire..)

Afterwards.. I'll add a post with the conversation that Jared and I have had so far.


sooooo.. onward!


What's on my mind now:
. either a normal 4 bite monkey fist, or a moonblaze style cathedral (both from poi), with an embedded eyebolt
. wick eyebolt --> quick link --> x" length of ball-chain --> rope
. I like the idea of a sheath for the rope handle.. this might also be nice to cover the ball chain in an effort to protect the spinner
. weight, I'll leave up to the poi I end up making, but I don't see any reason to intentionally add weights of any sort, to the wicks themselves.. especially because of the ball chain.

Questions:
. type of rope for the handle
. length of ball chain (12 - 18?)
. *attachment method for ball chain <--> rope*
posted by:
KaidaFire
Boston
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  • Re: full meteor design

    Wed, February 27, 2008 - 12:52 PM
    Message communication between Jared and I:

    msg 1

    CrazyGir wrote:

    > heya!
    >
    > I came across your awesome info (and photo) of
    > your new meteor two summers ago. You mentioned
    > sleeves and various other parts from mcmaster
    > carr. I'd love to investigate this more.. how
    > did these items end up working for you? do you
    > have any other information you can share? I love
    > the challenges meteor presents, and I think this
    > fire toy in particular, asks for a higher level
    > of design and engineering! ..so I'm interested
    > in how things worked out
    >
    > cheers!
    > : D

    -----------

    msg 2

    I have not spun meteor let alone built one in quite some time. I can tell you the first point to be destroyed on the meteor i made was not the points protected by the fire proof shielding but from physical scraping ware on the two very ends of the meteor (I.E. the outer points on the monkey fists)

    Do you have specific questions or are you just looking for a complete how to?

    I sadly to not know the mcmaster car part IDs but I can tell you that my frist meteor what a single solid peace of kevlar rope with two monkey fists tied on each end. simple as that. That failed because the point where the rope meets the monkey fists received more fire then it could handle and after a long time it broke down and frayed apart.

    To solve this in version too I used the same half inch kevlar rope with a kevlar core, not a fiberglass core (i beleive this as a chinese kevlar knockoff as apposed to dubonts patented kevlar product) and replaced the inner most core with threaded steal cable for obvious safty.

    Then i used a nomex cover on the entire inner length the inner rope section to reduce on ware both on the rope and my hands. I also used a product from McMaster car that was designed to protect pressurized cables from molten metal splash. it was dark orange with a fiberglass inner layer (good luck finding this).

    this design like said worked like a charm with no sign of ware and tare beyond kevlars normal depredation.

    let me know if you need any more clarification

    Jared

    -------------
    msg 3

    >
    > Jared S wrote:
    > > I have not spun meteor let alone built one in
    > > quite some time.
    >
    > awww.. sorry to hear ;)
    > hope things are going well, regardless..
    >
    > > I can tell you the first point
    > > to be destroyed on the meteor i made was not
    > the
    > > points protected by the fire proof shielding
    > but
    > > from physical scraping ware on the two very
    > ends
    > > of the meteor (I.E. the outer points on the
    > > monkey fists)
    >
    > good to know, I hadn't thought of it, but it
    > certainly makes sense.. and helps to rate the
    > various wear-and-tear points for this tool.
    >
    > > Do you have specific questions or are you just
    > > looking for a complete how to?
    >
    > I apologize for the lack of structure in my last
    > message.. I was a bit all over the place -
    > thinking of too many construction concepts at
    > once - and I also hadn't really realized the
    > date of your posts, until almost finished with
    > the message.
    >
    > Complete how-tos are nice, but from my
    > perspective as an engineer and diy guy.. they're
    > simply sets of information to take bits and
    > pieces from, unless you find someone with
    > *exactly* the same desires and constraints as
    > yourself.
    >
    > regardless, info and experience is *greatly*
    > appreciated though.
    >
    >
    > so some questions:
    > . I'm intrigued by the nomex cover idea.. was
    > this listed under a different name, or should I
    > be searching for nomex covers? I haven't had the
    > chance to look yet.. was it stretchy? did it
    > slid around at all? how did you decide on size?
    >
    > . any experience with implementing chain <--
    > > rope attachments, similar to rope dart? I've
    > temporarily decided detachable wicks, with chain
    > to separate them, would probably work best for
    > me..
    >
    > . why do so many people use kevlar rope for
    > their handles? is it the single-piece concept? I
    > don't have dart experience, so I've no opinion
    > or interactions with the various rope options,
    > and thus, have no idea what I'd like to use, but
    > kevlar seems like an odd choice in some regards.
    > what are the pros/cons as you've experienced?
    >
    >
    > > I sadly to not know the mcmaster car part IDs
    > > but I can tell you that my frist meteor what a
    > > single solid peace of kevlar rope with two
    > > monkey fists tied on each end. simple as that.
    > > That failed because the point where the rope
    > > meets the monkey fists received more fire then
    > > it could handle and after a long time it broke
    > > down and frayed apart.
    >
    > an interesting point I hadn't considered.. a
    > scary one too (that breaking point..) this is
    > why I think a chain separator is my best option,
    > despite the other implications it creates (like
    > more pain for me, when I fuck up..)
    >
    > > To solve this in version too I used the same
    > > half inch kevlar rope with a kevlar core, not a
    > > fiberglass core (i beleive this as a chinese
    > > kevlar knockoff as apposed to dubonts patented
    > > kevlar product) and replaced the inner most
    > core
    > > with threaded steal cable for obvious safty.
    >
    > totally awesome idea.
    >
    > > Then i used a nomex cover on the entire inner
    > > length the inner rope section to reduce on ware
    > > both on the rope and my hands. I also used a
    > > product from McMaster car that was designed to
    > > protect pressurized cables from molten metal
    > > splash. it was dark orange with a fiberglass
    > > inner layer (good luck finding this).
    >
    > heh.. I don't yet know if I'll add this in, but
    > the concept is an important one. I might use
    > something to cover the chains.. for my own
    > physical benefit that is..
    >
    > > this design like said worked like a charm with
    > > no sign of ware and tare beyond kevlars normal
    > > depredation.
    >
    > I like it, with the exception that you're
    > screwed when the wicks wear out. I do
    > performance, and during the summer, sometimes
    > burn 4+ nights a week..
    >
    > > let me know if you need any more clarification
    >
    > nope.. nope.. thank you so much for your input!!
    > I'll certainly let you all know how the project
    > continues..
    >
    > ~J

    ---------------
    msg 4

    lets do this. It my pleasure to answer your questions. its exciting to help someone build a new meteor but I would like this to be published so if you could please copy and past our current conversation into a post in either the santa rosa fire or the meteor tribe and then message me so i can do there and respond.


    hope thats ok,

    thanks
    Jared
    • Re: full meteor design

      Wed, February 27, 2008 - 1:54 PM
      I sadly do not remember any details about the products I used from McMaster Car because I was not the person that ordered them. My friend Ian (who is in my tribe friends list) ordered them for me.

      The nomex cover should be easy to find in that its a nomex sleave (toob) that was, i believe, available in standard hose sizes. I believe the product was made to protect a variety of hoses from heat damage.

      I have made several chain based meteors and the one i liked the most used ball chain (which has well argued structural issues) but they all hurt my hands after a short period of use so i gave up on them. Chain and rope have a very different feeling in a meteor in my experience and I like rope a lot better.

      Kevlar is one of the most fireproof soft materials that you can touch with your bare hands for a long period of time. that might be why people choose to make poi handles out of them but I have never seen the need. I liked the idea of a single peace of kevlar rope for a meteor because of the implicitly. if you want to use some other kind of rope you need to worry about connections and metal chain and a crap lot of other bull shit i just didnt want to deal with.


      also another aspect of meteor design that took me a while to grasp was the bridge-to-ball weight ratio. I.e. the weight difference between the entire middle (bridge) section of the meteor vs. the weight of either ball at the ends of the meteor. As this ratio changes the feel of a meteor will drastically change. It feels like the greater the difference the most inertia the meteor is able to store. If anyone understands this from a physics standpoint I would love to hear more about why and how this works.

      But in any event make some temp meteors using different kinds of rope and weights to get a ball park for what your preferences are. I once made a meteor with 1/4 climbing rope and an array of led weight thats felt like it spun its self. it held to much energy once you got it going that is was a challenge to stop spinning =P

      enjoy.

      p.s. please message me when you respond to this post because I have no other way of being notified of questions being asked of me.


      > so some questions:
      > . I'm intrigued by the nomex cover idea.. was
      > this listed under a different name, or should I
      > be searching for nomex covers? I haven't had the
      > chance to look yet.. was it stretchy? did it
      > slid around at all? how did you decide on size?

      > . any experience with implementing chain <--
      > > rope attachments, similar to rope dart? I've
      > temporarily decided detachable wicks, with chain
      > to separate them, would probably work best for
      > me..

      > . why do so many people use kevlar rope for
      > their handles? is it the single-piece concept? I
      > don't have dart experience, so I've no opinion
      > or interactions with the various rope options,
      > and thus, have no idea what I'd like to use, but
      > kevlar seems like an odd choice in some regards.
      > what are the pros/cons as you've experienced?
      • Re: full meteor design

        Wed, February 27, 2008 - 5:34 PM
        . nomex sleeves: between $1 and $2 per foot, from www.mcmaster.com/ (search kevlar, select tubing, a pdf will pop up)

        . As I see it, the extra wear and tear on the rope closest to the wick (as well as the added safety issues..) require some design changes to decrease this wear.. which you (jared) did with the hoses and what not.. which I think is an awesome idea.. but I don't think it's any different than having to figure out a way to transition from rope --> chain.. Further, I think the added awesomeness of being able to swap out your wicks, seals the deal (at least for me). I'm willing to tackle the chain attachment problem for these reasons!

        . bridge-to-ball ratio.. didn't think of this, though I believe this is what needs to be considered when experimenting with designs. I believe the physics behind how well the meteor spins/flows/feels with a properly balanced bridge-to-ball ratio is actually quite simple, though there are a few things to explain (please keep in mind I've hardly spun meteor, but I've seen a bunch, and have thought about the physical concepts a bit, at least as I understand them..) either way, this seems to make sense:

        First, with in a properly balanced system - in which the meteor seems to be continuing to spin itself, and the spinner simply needs to lightly add more energy into the system - the spinner (aside from adding that little bit of energy), is also working to stabilize the center point of rotation. This helps to keep the system in balance and maintain (or otherwise help) the forces at work.

        The rest is simple centrifugal "force" (and another set of things to balance). The centrifugal stuff first.. visualize 1/2 of a meteor that is in motion, and freeze it in time for a moment. There's a center point (which with time frozen, we've got this point locked in space for now), we've also got a tethered object attached to this point, a rope of some sort with an object of some mass.

        With time frozen we can analyze the forces.. the object would rather fly off into space (with all that velocity and energy behind it's movement.. inertia). The tether keeps this from happening, and creates the tension or outward (centrifugal) force. Note that the desired path and the outward force are perpendicular (also, it's this tension in the rope that makes the meteor act more like a staff..). The object's inability to travel on that outward path (because of the rope), creates the circular path we experience when spinning this monstrocity. SO! It is this outward force that keeps the sucker spinning.. and increasing this force makes our lives easier (though I'm sure there's a limit.. we'll ignore that)

        The outward force is subject to change as several aspects of the system change. With respect to this example, the mass of the object (wick), distance from the center point, and velocity of the object all change the force (more mass, less distance, more velocity, respectively.. all increase the outward force).

        Here's where my understanding gets a little shakey, and more theoretical (probably from a lack of understanding). I believe what we experience is really the summation of a number of things at work in this system.. each of which are other physical characteristics.

        Consider that the same outward force working on the wick, applies to each point along the rope from the center, outward. Remember that the distance from the center point, and object mass/velocity, all play a role here. So at each point along the rope, we've got an outward force acting on that point. I would assume that the optimal situation is for the wick's outward force to be *significantly* larger than the sum of forces experienced at each point, enough such that the summation is negligble and can be ignored. Where I'm a bit confused (or otherwise unable to explain).. it would seem that more (overall, ie wick + bridge) outward force means more momentum.. but each point along the rope also wants to keep moving along it's path, so what would make sense here is that the wick's centrifugal force is more *effective* without each point wanting to do this.. and each point would have more energy to do this if it were heavier, etc..

        Regardless, I think it's safe to assume that for most situations, a heavier bridge also means a (physically) larger rope, which brings along more resistance (a loosely woven rope would also cause this problem..)

        So I believe the combination of these aspects will greatly affect the overall balance of the system, and with a smaller, more streamlined, and lighter bridge, the wick's ability to maintain it's motion increases. I'm sure the spinner's ability to keep the center point stable is also important. Stable not free from movement, but more fluid flow, less jittery, etc..

        buuuut anyway.. I'm working on a monkey's fist now, and will test to figure out overall meteor length and what not. I have faith that the weight ratios will figure itself out over time.


        ----

        any suggestions for rope types (handle), or attachment methods for chain and rope?

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